Moment of stupidity today…
For probably the past year or so the visual editor hasn’t been working for me in WordPress. Just always plain text. No visual tab at all. And I checked. The disable WYSIWYG editor checkbox was clear for my account.
Today I tried checking the checkbox, saving settings, and then clearing the checkbox and saving again. Went back and the WYSIWYG editor is back.
Guess I should have tried turning it off and back on again a long time ago.